Celebrity's Millennium was launched, as its name suggests, in 2000, although the ship was recently remodelled to bring it in line with its younger sisters. She sails in Asia in winter and Alaska in summer.

Carrying 2,034 passengers, Millennium has a number of new features, not least a swish Canyon Ranch SpaClub and a new wine bar, Cellar Masters, serving wines from all over the world by the glass. Celebrity's quirky Qsine restaurant, which has been a big hit on the line's newer ships, is also on board; in here, you select from an iPad and assemble your own dishes, from mini-burgers to guacamole, or indulge in tiny newspaper rolls of fish and trips, or prawn cocktail on a bed of flashing ice cubes.

For those who prefer a more classical approach, the Olympic Restaurant is one of the most beautiful at sea. Dining in here is really special; the walnut panelling comes from the RMS Olympic, sister to Titanic, and the wine cellar has to be seen to be believed. Signature dishes include scallops in puff pastry with black truffle, or Dover Sole Veronique and there's plenty of showy tableside preparation by the accomplished waiters. There's also an elegant main dining room, the two-deck Metropolitan Restaurant; Bistro on Five for crepes and salads; and Café Al Bacio for fine Italian coffee and gelati.

Millennium has plenty of deck space and two pools, one with a retractable glass roof, so you can swim even in the cooler Alaskan summer. There's a gym, a children's club and a large casino. A decent lounge is important for cruising Alaska, as you spend so much time gazing at the sea on the lookout for whales and dolphins, and the forward Constellation lounge, with sweeping views by day and music and dancing at night, is the perfect spot.