Head just an hour out of Marrakech and you'll find a completely different atmosphere. A trip to The Atlas Mountains is a wonderful retreat, rustic but full of local character and set amidst stunning scenery. Where Berber culture is strong, and tourism mainly confined to trekkers. Two specific draws are the snaking road south to Taroudannt; and Imlil, Asni and Aremd, the Berber villages en route to the highest peak, the Djebel Toubkal. Trekking is easily arranged, and can be anything from a day's walk into the foothills to a trek lasting several days. The ascent of Toubkal is a favourite, requiring no technical expertise but a good level of fitness. Sights aren't what the Atlas is about - it's the views.